Day 9

8 October 2022

A day totally devoted to Saint-Emilion.

We didn’t rush, with breakfast at 9am, and very nice it was too. Our host, Estelle, had made yoghurt  as well as a lemon cake. Along with coffee, cheese, ham, bread, croissant and jams we were well catered for.

OK, up the hill. It can’t be avoided. This morning we found the west face of the citadel to attack. Roped up and with crampons attached we assailed the heights, and we were not disappointed. Another stunning and warm day in prospect. We found the market set up around the cloisters of a church. It was only a produce market, but the produce was excellent.

Kirsty was thrown by the mould laden salamis and prosciuttos, and was wishing for her spray bottle of anti-mould.

We settled upon some nougat, pate encroute and some cheese to purchase and a small ham and cheese baguette. It probably has a French name, but we didn’t get that. It was delicious and we couldn’t wait to tuck in.

Our next stop was more mundane, the Super Marche. It is discreetly tucked away on the edge of town where it can’t disturb the medieval ambience of the town. Basic necessities were purchased, including some fruit to balance out the baguette diet. Home time for a bit to organise some wine tasting over the next 2 days. You really need to book in advance and plan a visit, all of which usually costs. Average price is about 11 Euros each for a tour and tasting. They last about 1 hour.

That done, we were not needing lunch, so we set out for walk around the base of the village through the vines. We had a scheduled tour of the underground church at 2pm and then another tour of the underground cellars and old cloister at 3.30pm. A full schedule.

The walk was lovely, giving a completely different perspective of the town and putting into context the structure of the town on the hill. No wonder it became a focal point given how much it dominates the landscape.

The tour of the underground church of St. Emilion (not the town, but the Saint) was excellent. The church was excavated downwards to construct, with the extracted stone sold to the town to build houses. Clever St. Emilion. No photos were allowed as the church is privately owned and the owners think that my excellent camera work will undermine their exclusive distribution of photos.

The bell tower, which dominates the skyline, has subsequently been built over the church. The pillars of the church have now had to be braced to support it, also including the 5 star hotel on top of it as well.

Our next stop, Les Cordeliers, was a waste of time. It was a tour of the old cloisters of another church and then the underground cellars where they store their version of champagne. It was all in French with a sheet of paper with English for us to read instead. We did get to taste their 3 wines, but we wouldn’t rush to buy any. Proper Champagne every time !!

Feeling feet weary, we stopped halfway back at the large terrace which is the focal point of the town. There are many chairs and tables under a huge tree, with about 3 bars serving the clientele. The sun was streaming in between the branches, it was heaven, especially when Kirsty got her Kir and I had an Aperol Spritz. I did ask for Campari, but alas, no Campari. It was ironic that when my drink arrived it was in a glass with Campari written on it !

Kirsty had been hanging out for a galette, some we ordered one given that we had missed lunch. It was now about 5pm, so, yes, a late lunch. I think dinner tonight will be at about 9pm.

A great day, a busy day, and although the village was supposed to be packed, it wasn’t. So, an excellent day all round.