Dear all that have stuck with this blog, or have dropped in an out, I hope it has given you a sense of our holiday. We have had a blast.
It was so good to catch up with Kerry and KT and see how they live their lives and to share that with them for a few days.
It was also great to see parts of France we have not visited before and to have the time in each place to explore at our leisure and to therefore get a “feel” for each place. Once the strangeness of a new place wears off, which takes some days, you then come to understand that place a bit better.
Of course we are no strangers to Paris, but to stay in the Marais district was a first for us. We loved it here. It is young and vibrant. It is very local, and the tourists seem to by-pass this area. You get a real locals vibe.
Today we shopped again, going back to LV to complete the purchase from yesterday. We the headed for the Palais Royale for another purchase, and yes, the shop was open today. After last night’s meal we skipped breakfast, but around 11.30ish we were a little peckish. So, a morning coffee with baguette and jam in a cafe just outside the Palais Royale was in order. Not a bad place to stop.
We then walked towards Les Halles down Rue St.Honore exploring the shops as we went. The change in shops from the Place Vendome (where LV is) down to Les Halles is quite dramatic. All good fun. We were surprised to see that Les Halles is owned by Westfield. Gives a new meaning to “going to Westfields”
We kept going to the Pompidou Centre before our feet gave out. Metro home, across the road for a late lunch, a short snooze and then packing. We are being collected at 7pm.
Lunch
So, that’s it !! Always glad to be heading home and leaving with no regrets that we wished we had done more or stayed longer. Just perfect.
It was a much better night last night. I could even lie flat after a little while without going into coughing fits.
So, to today. Not a lot to report unless you like shopping.
Insdie Moncler
We had a lazy start, as we were both in need of a good lie in and a catch up. We had decided to return to Moncler on the Champs Elysee to purchase the sun glasses that Kirsty had really liked yesterday, but didn’t in fact actually need. What has need got to do with it ?? I was also tempted and lashed out and bought a T shirt. Mind you, it costs almost as much as Kirsty’s glasses.
We did get to have a coffee and water while we waited for our packages to be wrapped. Bargain !!
We then headed to our next destination at the Palais Royale, only to find it was closed on a Sunday. I must have misread the website. Anyway, we still have tomorrow.
We checked out Le Grand Vefour, the restaurant I took Kirsty to for her 50th. It is still there and still looks the same. The stain is still there on the century’s old carpet from where I knocked over a vase of flowers. There is a small sign now “An Australian was here”.
Grand Vefour, through the window. Our table was the second one from the bottom
We then headed towards Les Halles, found an open market with lots of food stalls. We also found a nice café for lunch, a light lunch, as we are out to dinner tonight at 7pm, not a time we are used to eating at. We have adopted the French way of eating dinner at no earlier than 8.30pm.
We had texted with Kate, as she was wondering how were spending our penultimate day. She kindly advised that both Chanel and Louis Vuitton were open on a Sunday. This prompted Kirsty to reveal that in fact, she wouldn’t mind a new cross body bag. I mumbled something about putting Kate into a body bag.
So, off we went to find LV. The crowds were out and about again, it being a another stunning day in Paris. It does look very stormy though, so maybe tonight it may come down. We have been so lucky with the weather.
Waiting, and yes, they are the new sun glasses
Unless you have a booking at the major fashion/bag stores, you normally have to que to get in. This we did, but it wasn’t all that long. Once inside you can wander until someone is assigned to you to take you through their products. In the meantime, you can have a champagne, which we did. Although Kirsty found a lovely bag, we had forgotten to bring a passport which you need for the store to process the 12% tax refund. When you spending money at places like LV, you certainly need to get the refund.
For that certain sporting person in your life
OK, so tomorrow we will re-visit LV, with passport, and we can also revisit the boutique that was closed at the Palais Royale. Time to head home for an hour or so before our dinner booking. We are going to Bofinger (pronounced “bo fan jay”) a classic Belle Epoque restaurant just around the corner. It promises “the best sauerkraut in Paris”. Mmmmm, this will be interesting. Kirsty has already decided to have anything without sauerkraut.
We are back from dinner. I needed a flying buttress to support my stomach up the stairs. OMG, huge meal. My fault, I went for the house special of the home made sauerkraut, pork knuckle, 3 different kinds of sausage and smoked ham plus potatoes and mustard. Too big. Kirsty had steak and chips, but did have half a lobster as an entrée. And, then we had dessert.
Groan
As ever, the tables are so close that one table has to be pulled out to let a person into their seat. It is all very strange and tense to start, with everyone whispering. However, by the end we were in deep conversation with our neighbours, well at least Kirsty was, as she had enough Italian to get by. They were from Switzerland, she was German and he was originally Italian, and her English was very good.
It was a great evening to finish with as our last dinner in France.
Another rubbish night. At this rate I will sleep all the way back to Australia.
Not to be deterred, and as it was Saturday morning, it was eggs time. It was more an omelette than scrambled, but with the addition of the left over chevre from the other night it had an added tang. Very nice, and set us up for the day.
We had a date with Ella at the Eiffel Tower, not that Ella was aware of it. Ever since she was small, Kate had trained her to recognise the Paris landmarks, and she is now very keen on anything to do with Paris. This has been reinforced with such books as: “Clarice, The Chicest Mouse in Paris.”
So, we arrived at the Eiffel Tower at the appointed time, 10am our time and 6pm Ella’s time. We video called her. Andrew had obviously said we were going to call, but without saying why. We didn’t show her the Eiffel Tower at first, and she was perplexed as to why we called. We then turned the phone around and her expression was priceless…..her grin just kept expanding, it was so cute. Clearly excited, we chatted on and promised to get a photo of the Arc de Triomphe for her.
She wanted Notre Dame as well, and I told here to check out my blog has I had already posted photos there.
Next we headed basically next door along the Quai to the Musee du Quai Branly-Jacques Chirac. It is a very cool building with the entire exterior a garden. Ex-President Chirac was a very keen student of world indigenous art, and hence his name is associated with the Musee.
The collection is extensive and we took audio guides to assist. There is a good section on Australia, but the PNG section is huge. There was also a special exhibition focusing on black America acknowledging indigenous Indians, which is the focus of Mardi Gras in New Orleans. It was an eye opener for me having this background, and also the history of slavery. France was far from innocent as regards the slavery movement.
These guys go door to door before Mardis Gras to wake veryone up…..that would do it !
It was certainly and exhausting morning, so we went in search of at least a coffee. We settled on what is probably an iconic café just over the Pont d’Alma, with a view back over the Seine with the Eiffel Tower behind. Bugger the coffee, gin for Kirsty and Campari spritz for me. Again, it was a hot and clear day, so the refreshments went down well. We were almost tempted to settle in for the afternoon.
But no, the street next to us was Ave. Montaigne. It houses many of the haut couture houses of Paris, so of course we need to stroll by (wallet firming locked into my pocket). I had no need to fear, each “House” had ques to enter, so Prada, Gucci, Dior, Armani, Jacquemus (no idea ?) YSL and Louis Vuitton missed out on our custom. We did venture into Moncler, which has out of this world ski gear and Kirsty almost bought a pair of sunnies. Given that anyone buying seemed to be getting champagne, we could have at least bought a T-shirt. May be next time.
Moncler
As we were now on the Ave des Champs Elysée it was only fitting as tourists to walk up to the Arc de Triumph and take a photo for Ella. The only problem was that every other tourist and every Parisian had the same idea. It was packed. We made our goal, took the shot, crossed over and came down the “poor” side with all the usual stores: Nike, Adidas (where the que was massive) etc. We found a café down a side street that was not a tourist trap and had an easy salad late lunch.
Now for home. I was really starting to fade. We made it back to Place de Concorde, crossed it safely which is no minor feat, into the Tuileries and down to the Louvre. The crowds were even bigger on this part of the trip. We bailed into Rue de Rivoli and into the Metro and home as fast as we could. It was 5.30pm by the time we were pouring our first whisky.
Big day. No nap for me, but someone else is snoring as a type. Dinner at 8pm and then bed, hopefully this time for a decent nights sleep.
What a crap night. The cold had taken hold, sore throat, bed sweats and hot and cold chills.
My nurse was ever vigilant, suffering with me, with cold and hot compresses as required for my aching body….well, not really, she decamped to the couch for a good night’s sleep.
By morning, we were both a bit jaded. Kirsty had a few symptoms, but as know, Man Flu is something far more serious.
I rallied after breakfast, the rain cleared, the sun came out, and so did we. We headed north on foot to locate the Basin de Marais. A series of canals linked by locks, that eventually enter the Seine via the Bastille area.
We found our destination and we were a bit underwhelmed. They are probably much more inviting and surrounded by life in summer. On a bleak day like this, they looked neglected and tired. Nonetheless, it is another little known area of Paris that we have visited. Tick.
It was a long walk up, so it was the Metro home. We collected a baguette and some Paris-Brest (pastries) for dessert. Then onto another shop for cheese, Rabbit terrine, Fagot (like twiggy sticks) and back home for a picnic. A glass or two of wine, and then an afternoon catch up. Much needed.
Our lunch view, very FrenchMy nurse after her exertions (or is that an empty bottle of white I spy ?)
Refreshed, we headed out to find some jewellery for Kirsty, and she bought some earrings. We continued our walk down the Rue San Antoine which becomes Rue de Rivoli further along. We walked a fair way, just watching the Friday evening folks out and about. I must say, the Parisians are not so chic as the Bordelaise, but they are a lot more avant-garde. Perhaps when we frequent some more up market parts of Paris we will find the Paris chic.
A Metro home, and then outside drinks and nibbles in the Place des Vosges. Perhaps the Paris smokers should be made to sit inside and we can have fresh air outside ? There are certainly still a lot of smokers here, and a lot are very young.
We will venture downstairs this evening for a meal at one of a number of cafes right around us. Night life is not lacking here. The flat is great in that when you shut the windows the noise is cancelled out.
Fingers crossed for a good sleep tonight.
Just another art shot, I liked that the Chamber of Commerce was in demolition mode
I awakened from a rough night in our new accommodation, but there was no maid in attendance to provide my morning coffee and usher me to breakfast. There was only my computer awaiting my working day.
I say “day” but in reality it is at most an hour to catch up with the day that has already past. A brief time to catch up with Kate and see what an awesome job she is doing.
Today I feel a little under the weather, and not because we had a big night last night. I have succumbed to a cold, very gluey in the throat and not feeling so great. A covid test is clear. It is raining early, so the gloom descends.
But wait, light appears as Kirsty rises and we plan our day. Today we are off to explore locally, the Viaduc des Arts. It is an elevated reclaimed rail line, similar to the High Line in New York, but older. It gives a very different perspective to see the buildings from up on high. It goes a for a few kilometres, and when you come down, you then retrace your steps at ground level and look at all the artisan shops that have been established in the arches of the railway line.
As we walk the day clears into a bright and very warm day. We have been so lucky with the weather. Back at Place Bastille, Kirsty takes advantage of the facilities. Alas, it is much better suited to men. We are only a short distance from our flat, so back we go the regroup.
We then head north from Place des Vosges, aiming for Marche des Enfants Rouge. This is a market with all kinds of eateries all on top of each other. It is very cool and hip, so we fit right in. We settle upon a Lebanese stall, and each have a kebab and a big beer. Delicious.
We then head south back towards the Seine, passing through the Jewish quarter, which is packed at lunchtime. Some places have huge lines of people waiting for what looked like kebabs…..Ummmm, people, we just had the best.
We finally make it to the river, the Seine, of course. We have great views back of Notre Dame under renovation. Even though it is all scaffolding, it is still great to see it. No less impressive, and it is just another page in it’s history.
We then make our way down the main square in front of the church, which offers views without scaffolding, but, of course, no towers/steeples. By now I am starting to fade, so it is the metro home where I have a little afternoon nap. Not sure if it is my cold or the large Lebanese beer, but I am soon zedding happily.
We have again elected to eat in tonight, with Kirsty doing a Thai beef salad (sans coriander or mint….Kirsty just cursed she had forgotten these), so it will be an early night and hopefully I am more with it tomorrow as we continue our exploration of parts of Paris that are off the tourist route (yes, I know, Notre Dame is on the tourist route !!).
Our last day at Versailles but check out is not until 12 noon. Very sensible.
Some of the staff at our Hotel and dining room in the background
After breakfast, again refusing eggs, but eating all the pastries, we had one more private outing. This time to the Petit Trianon. This was really the escape pad for Marie Antoinette and was where she stayed to be close to the village she had created nearby. This is the village we visited yesterday.
Pictures commissioned by Marie Antoinette depicting her Austrian family
There is not a lot to say about the building, except that the tour gave us an insight into her existence which must have been very daunting for her as a 15 year old, and for someone who valued their privacy, but wasn’t allowed any at the Palace. Clearly, the Petit Trianon was her bolt hole away from prying eyes. However, this only fed the propaganda that she was aloof and not the Queen of the people.
Back at the hotel, we packed and said our goodbyes. A car had been arranged to take us on the next step of our journey. To Paris. Specifically, the Marais district and on a street that feeds into the Place des Vosges. We have not stayed in this area of Paris before, and we are looking forward to exploring it. We have done the usual Paris tourist routes before, so this time we can really explore and find whatever we think is interesting. We will follow our usual golden rule of “if it looks interesting let’s explore it”.
Waiting for our ride to Paris
The trip into town took about an hour, but we were dropped right at the door of our AirBnB. The cleaner was still here and were able to drop our bags and wander off in search of lunch. Once we returned he had finished and was just waiting for us to show us around and explain the workings of the flat. It was terrific of him to do this, certainly saving us a bit of head scratching.
The flat is spacious, by French standards, and in a great location. We couldn’t be happier with the choice. You never know when booking online, and although the photos online made the place look a bit more “kept”, there is nothing we can see to complain about.
The FlatThe entry to Place des Vosages from our window
It is again unseasonably hot. The sun was streaming in the windows so it was down to T-shirts. Luckily, we have a washing machine and dryer, so we can restock our limited supply of cooler clothes.
Once we had unpacked we ventured out to the super-marches to stock up on essential supplies, boring stuff like wine and whisky. Oh, and we bought some food as well. It is steak and salad tonight in front of telly……can’t wait!! Tomorrow Paris.
We were awakened by a scratching sound on our bedroom door at 7.30am, then the door was opened and a comely maid carrying a lantern entered our boudoir with our morning milk of almonds to get the day under way. A traditional start to the King’s day. No one knocks as that is rude, hence the scratching.
We rolled our selves down to breakfast, rejected the offer of eggs and got stuck to the pastries and coffee. At least here they do great coffees, but overall the French don’t even do middle of the road coffees. It always tastes burnt.
We were out the door at 9.40 for our visit to The Grand Trianon. It was Louis XIV’s home away from home. He used it to escape from the Palace confines and have some “me” time. It also housed his mistress. As a royal building it was still over the top, but not on such a grand scale as the Palace.
Polishing the floor before our visit
It was been used to accommodate visiting dignitaries previously, such as President Kennedy and Jackie, but these days it is fully open to the public. It was another interesting private tour before the crowds came in. There were only 6 of us this morning.
Back at the hotel we had some time to kill before lunch, so we caught up on photos and social media. As we had lunch as part of our package we could not refuse. What we forgot is that the canapes and amuse bouche come as standard and all up there were 4 of those. But we did only have 2 other courses and rejected desert. A glass of bubbles was mandatory. The lunch was outstanding, another visual and taste sensation. But oh, we are so full. We definitely cancelled out of afternoon tea.
Yes, I took photos of my lunch
After lunch we booked in to use the golf carts on offer to explore the grounds of the Palace. With over 2,000 acres of gardens to explore it is the only sensible option. I must say we did feel a little guilty passing all those visitors on foot. One lot tried to hitch a ride, but we were not going their way (at least that is what we told them !!).
The navigatorA small part of the Palace
It was a terrific afternoon. We stopped where we wanted to explore more on foot, as the carts had a set route. We spent a lot of time exploring the Queens Gardens, where Marie Antionette had a village constructed to emulate a real life rural community. It was her escape from Palace life which depressed her. It is quite a surreal place. One of the hotel staff described it as Barbie’s play village.
The weather, although overcast, was clear of rain. It is not cold at all. So, when we retuned, it only seemed fitting to lounge on the terrace and have another champagne, so we did. The staff are very accommodating and very relaxed, so the atmosphere is not at all stuffy. They seem to enjoy the role play that they undertake.
Our outing tonight is back to the Palace to visit the Queen’s rooms. There are a whole new bunch of people in, and it would seem that one night stays are the norm. The Queen in question is Marie Antionette, and we had the same guide we had this morning. We were able to walk to the Palace this evening as it wasn’t raining, which was great to see it all lit up. It was as before quite dark inside, so hard to get any great pictures, but the Hall of Mirrors was again sparkling. It was once a terrace between the King and Queen wings, which was subsequently closed in.
More MirrorsMarie’s bathroom
All the tours have given us a great overview of the Palace and in an intimate and well explained way. The walk back in the dark was lovely with all the Palace lit up.
Now for dinner. We have elected A la Carte instead of the feast menu, just to try and cut down a bit on the food intake. I ordered an Entrée and main and Kirsty a main and dessert. Again, we received 4 canapes, a mushroom soup and bread before my entrée. When it came, they thought Kirsty would be lonely, so they brought her an entrée of foie gras. Our mains were the same which was a huge veal rib for 2, cut and served at the table with to die for mash and greens. Kirsty had a crepe suzette for desert, and because they thought I would be lonely they did a serving for 2…..why did we even bother. Ah, we also had a desert amuse bouche, plus chocolates and madeleines. Frankly, we should have turned up, ordered nothing and still had a sufficient meal with all the add-ons.
We leave tomorrow, but check out is 12 noon, so we have a morning tour first. It has been great here, thoroughly spoilt, but we are looking forward to Paris.
It is a quarter to midnight and I’m sitting here trying to type over my stomach which has some how expanded over the last couple of weeks, and particularly tonight….but more of that later.
We said our goodbyes to Ker and KT today, which is always sad to do. They have thoroughly spoilt us over the last 6 days, no wonder the reviews of their hospitality are so good. Thanks guys, it was such a pleasure to catch up and see your wonderful place. We had a blast.
We had an easy drive to Tours to catch the train, and didn’t get lost once. We thought there would be issues handing back the car, but it was straight forward. When the guy asked to see our paperwork form when we picked it up, we said there wasn’t any. “OK, it is a problem for Bordeaux” was all he said, so we were on our way very quickly.
The train was also easy, good seats, and only just over an hour to Paris. We were concerned about getting a taxi as there has been a petrol stike here for about a week and no fuel is available at most service stations. However, no issues with a taxi, a bit of a wait at the railway station, but we were soon on our way to Versailles.
Our hotel is actually within the grounds of the Palace, has 14 rooms and is geared to give the best experience of the Palace as is possible. We have never been to the Palace before, so we thought to maximise our time here by using this hotel. It is called Le Grand Controle, and was once the house of the tax man for Louis 14th.
The weather was not so great with a constant drizzle. The hotel entrance is very subdued and the taxi driver was not sure he had the right place until 2 men in period costume emerged with umbrellas to shelter us in. Wow, what an entrance. All the staff are dressed in period costume which sounds a bit “Disney”, but given the age and look of the restored building it works. The hotel has only been opened for about 18 months.
Our room, although not large, is very cute. There is ample space with a separate bathroom and a separate toilet, plus and small entry hall. We have a itemised list awaiting us detailing our stay and the times for inspections and meals. We are going to be busy, once we stop eating.
We attended afternoon tea, which was lovely, and then had time for a quick shower before meeting downstairs at 6.15pm for our first tour of the Palace. We were a group of 9 from the hotel for the English tour. It was amazing to have the Palace to, essentially, ourselves.
In awe
It was getting dark and the poor lighting meant photos were difficult. The first impression when you walk in is: “OMG, this is unbelievable”. The sheer size of the rooms dominates you, plus the decorations and paintings. Tonight’s tour was the King’s Rooms which included the Hall of Mirrors. Indescribable.
Hall of MirrorsLouis XIV’s wrtiting desk
We saw the table where the Treaty of Versailles was signed and the bedrooms where Louis 14th and Louis 15th died. So many things just left us open mouthed in awe.
Now, back to my stomach. It has swollen beyond recognition. I have no idea any more what my feet look like after tonight’s extravaganza. We had an amuse bouche, 3 entrees, a fish course, a duck course, three desserts, chocolates and petit fours. Oh boy, are we ever stuffed. The food was amazing. Couldn’t fault a thing.
It was a fixed menu designed by Alain Ducasse, and focused on the foods that were the favourite of Louis 14th. Each course was heralded in by the waiter (in period costume) to announce the course accompanied by 3 huge bangs on the floor with his staff as the signal for the food to be brought. Quite a performance.
The wine menu even had a bottle that we had bought in the Medoc from Chateau Talbot, a 2009 vintage, exactly what we had had with Ker and KT last night. We didn’t repeat the wine as on this list it was 480 Euros !!
This may go into the “too much information” file but I just went to the loo and leant against a control panel on the wall. Well, didn’t I get a nasty shock from below, the toilet doubles as a bidet. I couldn’t work how to shut it off, and I couldn’t stand up otherwise I would have had my own fountain in the loo. I just rode it out until the cycle had finished.
I will end here, whilst I recover for tomorrows onslaught.
We struggled out of bed after last nights excesses at 8am to video call Ella for her birthday. She had spent the day at the zoo, with Kate and her friend Hanna along to assist wrangle the kids. Ella had a special treat, with her cousin from New Zealand, Hazel, also coming along. Hazel is 4 months older than Ella.
Not to forget, Sloane, was also in attendance, so Kate and Hanna had their hands full. We received a photo from Kate with Sloane asleep on the ferry back from the zoo. Clearly, a big day.
Hazel and Ella were in great form on our chat. Neither of them is what you would call “shy”. I do hope Kate can get some sleep !!
After the chat Kirsty was straight back to bed. I stayed up and helped Ker tidy up a bit. When eventually KT and Kirsty emerged we had a very late breakfast, which was simple and light.
Langeais Chateau
Ker was starting to make bread, which needed his attention every half hour or so for a few hours, so KT took us touring to another Chateau, this time at Langeais. A truly medieval one, with even a draw bridge ! The village is very pretty and the Chateau has a good interior with plenty of information
Kirsty making sure she was nowhere near the outside wall of the Chateau
After a bit of cruise around the area, and a stop at the supermarket, it was back home at about 4pm. As we came down the driveway we spotted a Gendarme (Police) car parked on the lawn. KT immediately threw the car into a lefthand hand brake turn, just missed the large oak tree, floored the accelerator and shot back out the entry gate, collecting one of the posts on the way, which tumbled over the car and onto the road which effectively blocked the now pursuing Gendarmes, sirens howling.
We actually pulled up in the garage as usual. The Gendarmes were there to follow upon Ker and KT’s application for citizenship. It is a requirement that they make a surprise visit to check that what they say they do for a living is in fact true.
No dramas, and after much laughter and a French conversation we had no idea about, they left apparently satisfied that Ker and KT were genuine applicants. An easy meal and an early night methinks.
Day 17
16 October 2022
Well, it was an easy meal last night, but not as early as we envisaged. Out came the cards which we all used to play a lot, but these days it is hard to find people who play very much or who can remember the games. We had a few cracking hands of 500, and probably made it to bed by 11ish.
Breakfast was very light, as we are all still full from 2 days ago. The highlight was Ker’s home baked sourdough, straight from the oven. Even better than baguette, and that’s saying something !
Antiques market
Today we had plans to head to Chinon for the antique markets that are lined up along the river bank on Sundays. We agreed last night to a 10am departure, so getting away by 11.30am wasn’t too bad at all !
Ker plotted a different route to Chinon that took us through some lovely wine country, and past the winery of their friend from whom they source a lot of wine, a Mr. Gasnier. Ker calls him “Reg”, and has explained the reason to him.
Serious antiques, sorry, antique hunters.
The markets were very extensive, although the wares were not so great. It was nonetheless fun to wander about listening to Ker moan about “these bastards that trade in the detritus of other peoples lives”. Ah, sure Ker, but it is fun to look. Nothing was bought.
Only in France, bagette from a vending machine. Note, however, it is stocked by the local boulengarie
Home again for a late lunch and an easy afternoon. Chatting, washing, walking the dogs, inspecting the grounds (no rain today) and just hanging out. A bottle of Rose on the patio as the sun sank in the west, just idyllic.
Leg of lamb tonight for our last night, and the bottle of red from Talbot in the Medoc, a 2009, which we brought up with us, so fingers crossed it is as we remembered.
I’m putting a couple of days together at the moment as being with Kerry and KT is not so much of a travel blog, and more of a time with family, so perhaps not as interesting to all readers.
Day 14
13 October 2022
Today we headed for Chinon, after the usual slow start. This is not a negative! It is great to slow down and live the life. Chinon is about 30 minutes away and has a fort overlooking the old town. Very impressive it is too. We first went to the open air markets for supplies, and then wandered through the old town.
Chinon
It has plenty of character, but there is something lacking. There are too many closed shops and it has a down at heel feel about it. Found a great firm of lawyers, who I assume do a lot of Court work.( see below photo)
In need of assisstance at his age
Lunch was at a café, and we agreed before we went in that a light lunch was in order, given that we planned a big meal for the night. So, 4 courses later we emerged stuffed full !
Net stop was in Fontevraud, to see the Abbey. First we had the pleasure of one of Kerry’s back road experiences, it so good to see sooooo much countryside.
The Abbey as been there for something like 900 years, and it is amazing. It has recently been restored. For 150 years since the Revolution it was used as a prison, only decommissioned in 1963. There is no evidence left of those times, and it is hard to imagine that the interior had 4 floors added to accommodate all the prisoners.
It is also the resting place of Richard the Lionheart, his wife and his Mum and Dad. His Dad was Henry 11 (King of England) and his Mum was Eleanor of Aquitaine ( Queen of France and then England). For most of it’s life it was an Abbey populated by Nuns, who got to pray 8 times a day and got to eat twice a day- what more could you ask for ?
There is also a gallery attached with pictures donated from a private collection covering many periods of French art. The owners/collectors must have had a heap of money as the collection is vast with well recognised artists and also includes sculptures.
We were getting very foot weary by the end, but it was great as there was so much to see. Back home to briefly get ready to go out to dinner. It was an 8.30 booking, and it was in the local “big” town Azay Le Rideau. It was a terrific meal, but boy, were we ever stuffed full. I don’t think I can remember what feeling hungry is like.
The Restaurant we went to
Day 15
14 October 2022
Happy Birthday to Kerry.
We started with a trip to the local boulangerie for croissants and baguette, and then back for more food. It is just impossible to resist the baguette, with lashings of butter and vegemite !
KT headed out for supplies for tonight’s feast, and we just sat around and chatted with Ker. Eventually we got our act together and headed into Azay to the local Chateau. It is one of the prettiest around, in a beautiful setting with large gardens and on an island. Picture perfect.
Birthday Boy
The weather has turned a bit bleak, with showers, but it hasn’t deterred us from our main aim…eating and drinking.
By the time we returned KT had the meal well under way, a fantastic Cote de Boeuf for main. We then ventured out to the local seafood van, which comes once a week from the coast. We bought some Coquille St Jacques (scallops) and some oysters. It is a great game trying to guess the varieties of fish on display and relate them to what fish we know.
Mmmmm, what to buy ?
Ker and KT’s good friends, Dave and Sue, joined us for dinner. A slap up meal in the dinning room with the fire on, a beautifully set table by KT and lots of good wine.
The menu was nibbles and oysters and champagne in the kitchen, then into the dinning room for scallops with black pudding; the beef with turnip mash (yum) and broccoli; then the cheese course and finally the dessert of apple tart which KT had made from scratch, which looked and tasted amazing. Finally, an after dinner drink and into bed at about 12.30am. Washing up tomorrow.